Gunther Steinmetz, Riesling Trocken Wiltinger Rosenberg "Alte Reben", 2021 LWT3 and power—everything you'd expect from

and power—everything you'd expect from this legendary estate

and zero artifice

Its heavy clay soils over sandstone contain a distinctive iron pan 12 inches below the surface that imparts unique minerality

It's the most approachable of the three Grand Crus but still demands respect—this is not a wine to hurry through

in the hands of a serious young vigneron

Gunther Steinmetz, Riesling Trocken Wiltinger Rosenberg "Alte Reben", 2021 LWT3 and power—everything you'd expect fromHere Stefan Steinmetz strays from his Middle Mosel home base to the cooler, higher strung Saar, and the change of address shows. The Wiltinger Rosenberg is a grey slate slope in Wiltingen, and this old vine ("Alte Reben") cuvee is bottled bone dry, with several months in oak adding a whisper of texture to the Saar's steely core. Expect a leaner, more crystalline kind of Riesling than his Mosel bottlings: taut, high acid, and unapologetically dry. An