Laherte Freres, Champagne Petit Meslier Extra Brut [2022], NV SO081225 JB Becker a splash of lemon zest—and

a splash of lemon zest—and it drinks like it costs twice as much

Here Viognier is fermented on its skins

this is Chenin Blanc in its purest form—bright orchard fruit (think green apple

and red apple interwoven with subtle notes of spice

where nature constantly creates new expressions from year to year

Laherte Freres, Champagne Petit Meslier Extra Brut [2022], NV SO081225 JB Becker a splash of lemon zest—andPetit Meslier is one of Champagne's nearly forgotten grapes, and almost nobody bottles it on its own Aurlien Laherte does, and as the region warms its naturally piercing acidity has gone from curiosity to genuine asset. The fruit comes from massale selected vines partway up the hill at Chavot, on rich clay silt soils in the Coteaux Sud d'Epernay, and it is fermented and raised in wood like most of the estate's production, then finished at just 2 grams